Wild Atlantic Way — Kerry
The classic Iveragh Peninsula loop — MacGillycuddy's Reeks on your inside shoulder, the Atlantic on your outside mirror.
On the map.
The vertical picture.
What the road feels like.
Everyone thinks they've seen the Ring of Kerry. They've seen it from a tour bus. They haven't seen it at half seven in the morning when the mist is still lifting off the lakes at Ladies View and there isn't another vehicle from Molls Gap to Sneem.
Ride it anticlockwise from Killarney — against the coach traffic. The road drops through the Black Valley, climbs Molls Gap, then unfurls along the Kenmare River. By Waterville the Atlantic has taken over completely and stays with you all the way past Cahersiveen and back through Killorglin.
The trick is the detours. Peel off onto the Skellig Ring. Cross the Portmagee bridge to Valentia. Take the mountain road over Ballaghisheen Pass instead of coming home the coast way. Turn a six-hour loop into a two-day pilgrimage.
- 01Molls Gap and Ladies View overlooks
- 02The Skellig Ring diversion (motorcycle-friendly, coach-free)
- 03Valentia Island via the Portmagee bridge
- 04Ballaghisheen Pass mountain crossing
- 05Killorglin at Puck Fair time (August) if you love a party
- JamKenmare
Best sausage roll on the peninsula. Bike parking on Henry Street.
- The Bridge BarPortmagee
Chowder, a pint of the black, view of the Skelligs.
- Quinlan's SeafoodCahersiveen
Fish and chips done properly.
- Ride anticlockwise (against coach direction) to avoid tour buses.
- The road narrows dramatically past Sneem — expect oncoming traffic in your lane.
- Fuel at Killarney or Kenmare. Options on the west side are limited.
Pulled from the real GPX.
From the road.
